Sogand Nobahar

Antique glass jewels displayed on cut recovered bottle bases inside a museum vitrine, exhibition design by Sogand Nobahar for Museo del Bijou di Casalmaggiore

MUSEO DEL BIJOU DI CASALMAGGIORE

Exhibition Design · Spatial Design · Recovered Materials · Macro Photography · Art Direction

Casalmaggiore, Italia · 2022 and 2023

Three hundred glass jewels. A display built from glass nobody thought was precious.

The Challenge

In 2022 the United Nations declared the International Year of Glass. The Museo del Bijou di Casalmaggiore, the only museum in Italy dedicated to bijou, marked it with over three hundred pieces from private collections and its own archive. Two centuries of Italian glass jewellery, curated by Bianca Cappello and Augusto Panini, under the patronage of the Comitato Nazionale Italiano AIHV.

Bianca Cappello called me before the design existed.

What the museum had was six mushroom vitrines, each divided into four sections of roughly fifty centimetres, and six rectangular tables. What it had to display three hundred pieces on was white fabric supports and black plastic heads.

She wrote that she wanted something different and astonishing.

She already had ideas. Modular crystal sheets stacked into levels. Recycled glass recovered from processing plants. Offcuts from foundries. Glass bricks she had found online. The bricks cost too much and the rest needed a supplier. There was no budget for new casework.

I did not use any of them.

Glass mosaic cuff designed by Giorgio Vigna resting against a cut bottle base in a museum vitrine, display design by Sogand Nobahar
Giorgio Vigna's cuff resting on a cut bottle base.

“Looking for something magnificent that is right there, just out of sight.”

“La ricerca di qualcosa di magnifico che è proprio lì, appena fuori dalla vista.” From the project moodboard, written before the first bottle was cut.

Murano micromosaic pendants displayed on cut glass supports, Museo del Bijou display design by Sogand Nobahar
Murano mosaic pendants.

The Material

The catalogue for the exhibition opens on the idea that a glass artwork is precious above all because it is unique.

I went the other way. I looked for the glass object nobody considers precious at all.

The bottle. Thrown out by the crate, every day, everywhere. It is also the oldest container for something worth saying. A message in a bottle is an older idea than any piece in that room.

Discarded glass holding collected glass. Same substance, different stage of its life, and the visitor reads both at once without being told.

Collecting

Sixty bottles, from bars and from neighbours.

Green, clear, blue. Different shoulders, different necks, different bases. The range of shapes I could collect was the range of supports I would have, so the collecting was already the design.

Washed by hand. Labels off, glue off, glass clear enough to sit under museum light.

Sixty recovered glass bottles collected on a table before cutting, exhibition display material gathered by Sogand Nobahar
Collected from bars and neighbours.
Recovered bottles being washed in soapy water before cutting, exhibition display process by Sogand Nobahar
Washed by hand, sixty of them.

Cutting

Cut with a face shield and cut-resistant gloves.

Every edge ground by hand. Sanding drums on a rotary tool first, then finer, until the rim was safe to touch and true enough to sit flat.

The cut cylinder became a plinth. The base became a disc. The neck held what would otherwise have lain flat on fabric. Twenty-two discs at eight centimetres among them, counted before they were cut because the layouts were already drawn.

Sogand Nobahar cutting a recovered glass bottle wearing a face shield and cut-resistant gloves
Face shield, cut-resistant gloves.
Sanding drums and rotary tool beside cut glass cylinders, hand finishing for the Museo del Bijou exhibition display
Sanding drums, then finer.
Hand-ground edge of a cut glass bottle section, finished by hand for the Museo del Bijou display
Every edge ground by hand.

The Background

Then the third register. Macro photographs of glass, printed and mounted as the backgrounds of the vitrines. Cut crystal. The curve of a bottle in blue.

At that scale glass stops being a container and becomes a landscape. The jewels sit in front of it.

Discarded glass underneath. Magnified glass behind. Precious glass in the middle.

Macro photograph of cut crystal used as a vitrine background, Sogand Nobahar
Macro photograph. Glass behind glass.
Macro photograph of a bottle curve in blue used as a vitrine background, Sogand Nobahar
The curve of a bottle, magnified.

The System

The brief asked for the interior of one module of each type, as a template.

I delivered a system instead. Scheme A and scheme B alternating across the four quadrants of every mushroom vitrine, with the backgrounds swapping between them. Four variants for the tables.

Six vitrines, twenty-four quadrants, no two identical, built from one kit of parts.

Blue glass chain necklace displayed around a cut bottle base against a macro glass background, Museo del Bijou
Bottle necks hold what lies flat.
Beaded collar draped over recovered bottles in a museum vitrine, display design by Sogand Nobahar
Six vitrines. No two alike.

What Happened

The exhibition opened on 23 April 2022 and ran to 9 October, extended to 16 October.

Credited in Arte.it, Il Giorno, FashionNetwork, L’Orafo Italiano, Preziosa Magazine and 18 Karati.

Then the museum called again the following year.

Mushroom vitrines with macro glass backgrounds in the Vetro exhibition, Museo del Bijou di Casalmaggiore
23 April to 16 October 2022.
Visitor viewing the Vetro exhibition vitrines, display design by Sogand Nobahar
Sogand Nobahar with Augusto Panini, co-curator of Vetro, in the exhibition room at Museo del Bijou di Casalmaggiore
With Augusto Panini, co-curator.
Bianca Cappello handling a cut glass support while installing the Vetro exhibition at Museo del Bijou di Casalmaggiore
Bianca Cappello, co-curator, installing.

The Second commission: Milleuna Fibbia, dal Settecento alla Dolce Vita. 

28 October 2023 to 17 March 2024.

Buckles from the Pennasilico collection, from the eighteenth century to the Dolce Vita. Curated by Bianca Cappello and Samuele Magri.

Same rooms. Same six vitrines, same six tables. A different problem.

Both times I started the same way, by writing down what already existed. For Vetro that list was six vitrines, four quadrants each, white fabric and black plastic heads. For Fibbie it ran longer. Thirty large cubes and twenty small ones, all 10.3 centimetres high. Every usable fabric in my house measured and photographed, with a mark on the ones already spoken for. Nothing was designed until the inventory was finished.

Inventory sheet of recovered fabrics with dimensions, used to build the Milleuna Fibbia display
What existed, before anything was made.

Infilata nel Tempo

A collage for each period. Buckles set against the figures who wore them, printed as the panel standing behind each display.

I used illustration rather than photography. It carried the mood of the period better, and it removed the image rights problem that period photographs would have created for the museum. The design decision and the legal one were the same decision.

Gold filigree buckle in its original case on a museum cube in front of a collage panel, Milleuna Fibbia
The panel behind the object.
Guilloché enamel buckles on a grey felt wedge in front of a bilingual exhibition panel, display design by Sogand Nobahar
Grey does not compete.
Eighteenth-century collage panel from Infilata nel Tempo, buckles set against period figures, designed by Sogand Nobahar for Museo del Bijou di Casalmaggiore
One panel, one period.

The colour

Italian in black, English in blue, on every panel.

Blue felt and pale blue felt placed on the side opposite the blue text, never underneath it. Grey everywhere else, because grey does not compete with a buckle.

Twenty-four quadrants and six tables keyed like that, drawn before anything was cut.

Art Deco buckles on a felt wedge beside a 1925 exhibition panel, Milleuna Fibbia display design by Sogand Nobahar
1925, and the same wedge.
Quadrant layout scheme for a mushroom vitrine showing cube placement and felt colour keying, drawn by Sogand Nobahar
Twenty-four quadrants, keyed.

The material, again

The bases are cardboard and fabric. Wedges, risers, flat pads, cut to the object that would sit on them.

The felt was bought. Six blue, seventeen grey. Everything else came out of my own cupboards.

The museum bought no casework for this one either.

Hand sketch of a stepped fabric riser for buckle display, Milleuna Fibbia
Cardboard, fabric, cut to the object.
Mushroom vitrine with collage panels and felt displays during Milleuna Fibbia at Museo del Bijou di Casalmaggiore
28 October 2023 to 17 March 2024.
Sogand Nobahar holding two cut glass vessels beside the exhibition vitrine she designed
Sogand Nobahar, the night before opening.

Identity is spatial. It is felt, and it occupies space the way an object does. This is the version of that idea you can walk around.

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